F 868 
.Y6 U4 
Copy 1 




Class, r oG A 



Book 



^saG H /^ 



REPORTS 



OF THE 



SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR 

'■I 



RELATIVE TO 



YOSEMITE PAR] 



18 9 3. ! 



WASHINGTON: 

GOVERNMENT PRINTINa OFFICE. 
1893. 




R E P O R T S 



OF THE 



SECRETARY OF THE INTERIOR 



RELATIVE TO 



YOSEMITE PARK. 



18 9 3. 



WASHINGTON: 
GOVERNMENT PRINTING OFFICE. 

1893. 



m 



J31 



;• 1 3 1908 



DEPART]VrENT OF THE INTERIOR, 

Washinfjton, December 29^ 1892. 
Sir : The Senate adopted September 22, 1890, the following resolu- 
tion : 

Be-Holved, That the Secretary of the Interior be directed to carefully inquire and 
report to the Senate at his e'ailiest convenience whether the lands granted to the 
State of California on certain conditions by act of Congress approved June 30, 1864, 
have been spoliated or otherwise diverted in whole or in part from the public use 
contemplated by the grant, and if so what steps if any, in his judgment, are neces- 
sary and proper to be taken in order that the necessary public use may be subserved 
and further siJoliation prevented. 

In response there was submitted the following- statement and sugges- 
tions : 

The act approved June 30, 1864, grants to the State of California the gorge of the 
Yosemite Valley at the head waters of the Merced River of an estimated length of 
15 miles and a width of 1 mile back from the main edge of the precipice on each side 
of the valley and also "the tracts embracing what is known as the Mariposa Big 
Tree Grove iiot to exceed the area of 4 sections to be taken in legal subdivisions 
of one-fourth section each." 

The boundaries of these tracts were to be establivshed by the United States sur- 
veyor-general of California at the ex])ense of that State. The grant was 'Svith the 
stipulations that the State shall accei)t this grant upon the express conditions that 
the ]>remises shall beheld for public use. resort, and recreation, shall be inalienable 
for all time; but leases not exceeding ten years may be granted for portions of said 
premises; all incomes derived from leases of privileges to lie expended in the prep- 
aration and improvement or the property or the roads leading thereto. The premises 
managed by the governor of the State with eight other commissioners to be appointed 
by him, and who shall serve without compensation." 

The act of Congress, with all the attending provisions and trusts, was accepted by 
the State of California by legislative act, approved April 2, 1866. Commissioners 
were appointed, the reservation surveyed, and possession taken. They have e-rer 
since been held and managed ]>y that State, by the board of commissioners provided 
for by the grant and through guardians subject to the control of said 1)oard. 

There was no appropriation made to enable the Secretary to adeqiiately prosecute 
the inquiry now demanded, and it has therefore been pursued upon correspondence 
merely, aiid the statements made and upon which this report is founded are for the 
most part unsworn to. 

Upon the passage of the resolution immediate steps were taken to obtain all the 
accessible information concerning the condition and management of the reservation 
named. Letters of inquiry were addressed to all persons of good repute who 
were deemed to have had opportunities for informing themselves in the matter. Re- 
ports and printed statements bearing upon the subject, as well as photographs of 
various localities in the valley, were looked up, and a special agent was sent to 
make investigation. In this wav a very large amount of the evidence of the nature 
mentioned has been obtained, the original letters and papers are Hied in the De- 
partment. A careful abstract is herewith presented. 

It will be found that while o]»inious of witnesses differ as to management and 
treatment, there is very general agreement as to facts. While some have been more 
observant and clear-sighted than others, there is almo.st no contradiction between 
statements. Thefollowing points are by such statements affirmed. 

First, as to the Yosemite proper. , . , o r^i • 

There has oeen a very general and indiscriminate destruction ot timber, bome of this 
has been done to obtain" l)uilding, bridge, and fencing material and fuel. Some, as 
it would seem, to prenare lands for the plow or pasture ; some with the notion of 
opening up views froin certain points; a great deal from carelessness or neglect, and 
some, "it would almost appear, from mere wantonness. A former guardian ot the 
park (Mr. Hutchings), writing in 1888, states that " within three years not less than 
5,000 trees have been cut down." 



4 YOSEMITE PARK. 

Second. A large portiou of tlie valley, from oue-liaif to four-fifths, has been fenced 
iu and put to grass or grain. The fencing is largely done Avith barbed wire and the 
inclosures are so joined together and strung lougi'tudiually along the valley as to 
contine travel to narrow limits between the fences and the slope from the "moun- 
tains There seems to l)e very littleroom leftfor paths for pedestrians in the valley. 
Third. The valley has been pastured to such an extent as to destroy a great many rare 
plants which formerly grew there luxuriantly. Formerly there were over four' hun- 
dred species of plants new to botany in the Valley. Nearly all of these have been 
destroyed, if not exterminated, by herding and the jilow. A few it is hoped may 
yet be saved. • 

Fourth. The nianagement seems to have fallen into the han<1s of a monopoly. Neither 
in the hotel accoramodatrons, transportation accommodations, nor the furnishing of 
jtrovcnder for the animals of tourists does any competition ap^iear to be ])ermitti'd. 

The main road uii the middli^ of the valley, from which the overhanging wall 
scenery can best be viewed, has been closed, and about the only ways, or room for 
ways, left, are the main carriage paths across the talus and up the spurs, so rough and 
precipitous that very i'ew ])edestriaus caj-e to climb them. 

So much of the valley as has not been inclosed seems to b».' pastured by stock owned 
by the stable and transitortation men, to such an extent that there is no grazing left 
for the animals of the tourist or visitor. 
Second. As to that part of the Yosemite grant outside the A-alley. 
This seeuis to have been abandoned to sheepherders and their flocks. The rare 
grasses and herbage have been eaten to the bare dirt. The magnilicent flora that 
added so greatly to the enjoyment of this scenery has been destroyed. Fires were 
allowed to be kindled evei-ywhere, and, escaping- Avhere there was substance left, 
have reached the trees and shrubs and consumed them. It also appears that large 
sequoias and other evergreens have been cut down by trespassers to get the seeds for 
exportation to foreign lands. 

Third. The big tree grove has been much damaged by firej but whether this has 
been the result of mismanagement may be (iiiestion^d. There is no doubt, however, 
that a high regard for the trust reposed in the board of managers would have in- 
duced them to have prevented l)y all means this destruction of these wonderful 
trees. 

These acts of spoliation and trespass have been permitted for a number of years 
and seem to have become a part of the settled policy of the management. 

The re])ort of the commissioners, for 1885 to 1886.'urges that all the available land 
on the floor of the valley be put to cultivation of grass for hay. to the amount of 
1,000 acres, for the '• augmentation of the revenues of the State."'' There are 1,141.56 
acres on the fl»or of the valley. So it will be seen that the i)olicy of the commis- 
sioners is to divert at least nine-tenths of the valley from use as a jiublic resort to a 
source of State revenue, 

There])ort for 1887-88 recommends "seeding the valley from wall to wall with 
useful grasses."' The estimates of what has already been fenced and put to grass 
and grain run from 600 to 800 acres. 

Had it not been intended that this beautiful valley should be kept in its primitive 
beauty, then it should have been given for homesteads. But it is stated that the 
hotels, the stage transportation, and the livery animals are run by a combination, 
whose purpose it is to make money only. 

The State of California accepted the grant on the express condition that it should 
be held for public use. resort, and recreation. At that tiui" the Yosemitr was already 
famous as the most wonderful natural scenery on earth. There can l)e no doubt tha^ 
it was the purpose of Congress that all its features should lie perpetuated in their 
original unmarred beauty and attractiveness, and the best means of attaining this 
end, it was deemed, was to put it under the guardianship of the State. It is not seen 
that other sufficient reason could have presented itself for the action taken. 

While the State was authorized to lease portions of it for terms not exceeding ten 
years, applying the proceeds to improvements beneficial to the reservation, evidently 
the intent of the act was and is that only so much, and such portions of the valley, 
should be leased as should be found necessary for appro]>riate buildings for the com- 
fortable entertainment of tourists and other visitors, and that with as little marring 
of the natural features of the valley as practicable. 

It is submitted that it was not contemplated that the valley should be cleared up 
for a stock farm or stock ranch from which an improvement fund should be realized, 
and which, Avlnm realized, should be expended to make more fences and farms. Rents 
were to be merely an incident to the main purpose of preserving the jtark. 

If this be the true construction the statute has been misinter})reted, and too nar- 
row a meaning has been given it. 

For the purpose, as it would seem, of realizing the largest possible revenue obtain- 
able from the valley there has, it is claimed, been permitted a largely indiscriminate 
devastation of the magnificent forest growth and luxuriant grasses, that many years 
alone can repair. 



VOSEMITE PARK. 5 

If ,1 matter of such grave importance as tliat ought to be investigated, the Senate 
shouhl not have expected of the Secretary (without au a]tpropriation and with no 
power to send for persons or pa])ers or to administer oaths) anything more than such 
an inquiry as has here been attemjjted, or anything beyomi au expression of opinion 
whetlier the subject is worthy of further cxaminaTion. With this umhn'standing, it 
is sul)mitted that from these communications it apjiears tliat there has been great 
and unnecessary spcdiatiou of the Yosemite Park, and the park has been largely 
diverted from the public use contemplated by the grant; and it is rccominended that 
an appropriate committee, with adecprate means and power, be auth<nized to make 
further investigation and report. 
Very resiiectluUy, 

.JOHX W. NOHI.E, 

Secret ((f II . 

On the 2d of March, 1S91, the Senate ado])ted the following resolu- 
tion: 

Kesolverl, That the Senetary of the Interior be directed to continue the inquiry 
authorized to l>e made concerning the Yosemite Park, by resolution of date Septem- 
ber 22, 1890. session of C.'ongress on its asseml)ling. 

Attest: • • . 

Ansox G. McCook, 

Secretary. 

In my annual re]>0! t for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1S91, trans- 
mitted to the lirst session of the Fifty-second Congress, I called the at- 
tention of Congress to the matter in the following language: 

Under a resolution of the .Senate, during the last ye.ar, au examination was made 
by the Department as to the nianagement of the Yosemite Valley, now under the 
control of the State of California. This resolution directed that careful inquiry and 
report should be made whether the lauds granted to the State of California, on cer- 
tain conditions, by au act of Congress api)roveil .him- 3, l.'^Gi, had been spoliated or 
otherwise diverted from the public use contemplated by the grant. 

This grant included the gorge of the Yosemite Valley, at the head waters of the 
Merced Kiver, of au estimated length of 1.5 miles and a width of 1 mile back from the 
main edge of the prei'ijiice on each side of the valley, and also the tract embracing 
■w^liat is known as the ^Mariposa Big Tree Grove. 

The grant was made with the stipulations that '• the State shall accept this grant 
upon the express conditions that the ]iremises shall be held for public use, resort, 
and recreation; shall be inalienable for all time; but leases not exceeding ten years 
may be granted for ])ortions of said ])remises. all incomes derived from leases or 
privileges to be expended in the preservation and improvement of the property on the 
roads leading thereto." These trusts, with the accompanying provisions and condi- 
tions, were accei)ted by California, through an act of the legislatui'e A]iril 2, 18t>6. 
The lands have ever since been held and managed by the State of California, through 
a board of commissioners. 

There was no appropriation made by means of which the departmental examination 
could be thoroughly conducted, and reliance had to be placed entirely upon private 
stateuieuts obtained by corres]iondence. A report, however, was made, and trans- 
mitted to the Senate January 31), 1891. 

In tliis it wassaid in suVistauce that reports and statements, obtained from persons 
of good repute, and whose op])ortuuities for having correct information make their 
testimony reliable, seem to establish, as to the Yosemite Valley, tliat there has been 
a very great destruction of timber there; some of which has been used for buildings, 
fences, and fuel; some removed simply to clear the lauds for cultivation, and a great 
deal laid waste through carelessness and wantonness; that more than half of the 
valley has been fenced with barbed-wire fencing and cultivated with grass and 
grain : that these inclosiires have coufiued travel to narrow limits between the fences 
and the slope of the mountains, and have left but little room for paths for pedes- 
trians up this valley; that a great many rare plants which were new to bcjtany have 
been destroyed, if not exterminated, by plowing and i>asturiug tlie valley; th.it the 
management has fallen into the hands of a m<uiopoly. and no com])ctitiou seems to 
be permitted in hotel accoiumodatious. transportation facilities, nor in furnishing 
provender for the animals of tourists; the main road up tin- uiiddle of the vall<fy 
has been closed; and that the uninclosed portion of the valley is i)astured by the 
stock of the stable and trans]>ortatiou men, almost to the exclusion of the animals 
of the tourists or visitors; that these acts (jf spoliation and trespass have been ])er- 
mitted for a number of years, and seem to have become a part of the settled policy 
of the nianagement. 



6 YOSEMITE PARK. 

The reports of the commissiouers of California from 1885 to 1888 recommend th© 
cnltivatiou and seeding of 1,000 acres of the floor of the valley with grass and hay, 
and the seeding of the " valley from wall to wall with nseful grasses "' for the " aug- 
mentation of the revenue of the State." There are 1,141.56 acres on the floor of the 
valley, and it is estimated that from 600 to 800 acres have already been fenced and 
put to grass and grain. 

Had it not been intended to preserve this beautiful valley in its primitive beauty, 
then it should have been given for homesteads. When the State of California ac- 
cejtted the grant the Yosemite was already famous for its most wonderful natural 
scenery. The purpose of Congress undoubtedly was to place it under the guardian- 
ship of the State as the best means to secure the ])erpetuation ot its natural beauty 
and attractiveness. The authority conferred by the grant to lease certain itortions 
for terms not exceeding ten years, and to apply the proceeds to bencticial improve- 
ments, was evidently intended to apply only to such jjortions as should be necessary 
for appropriate buildings for the entertainment of tourists and visitors, without 
marring the natural features of the valley. It was not contemplated that the valley 
should be turned into a farm or stock ranch. The rents were to be merely an inci- 
dent to the main purpose of preserving the park. If this be the true construction, 
the statute has been misinterpreted by the management. By resolution of the Sen- 
ate this inquiry was to be continued, but still no appropriations being made, and cor- 
respondence having been exhausted upon the subject, but little has been added to the 
facts heretofore obtained. 

The matters presented are of such great importance that they call for further ex- 
amination than can be made without an appropriation, and it is recommended that 
a committee with adequate means and power be authorized to make further investi- 
gation and report. 

With the report were sent many photographs and copies of the original letters. 

In my annual report for the fiscal year ending June 30, 1892, I quoted 
as follows from a report made October 3, 1892, by Special Land Inspec- 
tor Maj. Eugene F. Weigel, whom I had had detailed to make investi- 
gation concerning the condition of affairs in Yosemite Valley: 

A good deal of uuderbrushiug had been done near the Stoneman House in Yosem- 
ite Valley and arounl the stables of the Trausportatiou Company by direction of 
the State commissioners, under the supervision of Galen Clark, the guardian. Mr. 
Clark was formerly one of the commissioners, and although 78 years old is still active, 
and ajipears to be an educated, honorable man. He took me around to the places 
where the clearing had been done for the purjtose of lessening the danger of fires, 
and which, it is true, at tines partook of the nature of a mutilation of natiu-al 
beauty. 

Guardian Clark was free to confess that he Avas no scientiflc Iandsca]ier. and tliat 
he carried out the orders of the board to the best of his ability. He said that he had 
frequently importuned the commissioners to emi)loy some expert lan(lsc?j25e eugineer 
to thoroughly study the valley and make a systematic plan of iniiirovemeuts that 
might be carried out in the course of several years, but all to no avail. It is cer- 
tainly true that the young ]dnes and underbrush are too thick in ]ilaces and need 
a judicious thinning out, and the dead and decaying trees should all be removed. To 
my inquiry. Mr. Clark replied that it was not designed to carry this work on any 
further down the valley, and that it certainly was not intended to clear any more 
ground for meadows or planting. 

More drives and pedestrian walks are needed, and the roads in the valley should 
be sprinkled. Many of the old, unsightly buildings should be removed, iind when- 
ever a new building of any kind is needed it should in outward appearance conform 
to the requirements of park surroundings. 

For the kind of accommodations furnished the charges of the hotels are rather 
high, and the chai*ge6 for stabling, teaming, or hire of vehicles or saddle animals in 
the park are beyond all reason. 

To judge by the utterances of individuals here, as well as in Merced, Mariposa, 
and Fresno counties, a large majority of the people would be in favor of letting the 
government of the Y'osemite Valley revert to the National Government. I have been 
informed by diftereut p:lrties that an efl"ort will be made in the next assembly to ac- 
complish this object. To the ordinary traveler the toll-roads in and outside of the 
park are very annoying, aiul the free road to be built up to the valley, from Merced 
this winter, will be hailed with delight, besides possessing the advantage of enabling 
the tourist to visit the valley all the year round. It will reach Yosemite Valley on 
easy grades via Mariposa, and attain no high altitudes, so that it can be kept open 
all winter. 



YOSEMITE PAEK. < 

YOSEMITE NATIONAL PARK. 

Besides acquiring all the toll-roads within the limits of the Yosemite National 
Park, the National Government should endeavor to secure by purchase the rights and 
claims of all private individuals within the boundaries of the park (except that 
portion in the southwest corner which you have recommended to be released), but 
especially all timber or agricultural claims. It is terribly demoralizing to the vis- 
itors of this national park to pass through a tract of land 12 miles within the limits 
of the park, between Wawona an<l the Yosemite Valley, where a heartless vandal is 
even now choi)ping down maguiticent piues 4 and 5 feet in diameter and between 100 
and 200 feet high, merely for the purpose of cutting out a section of 20 or 30 feet 
from which to make shakes. The main road runs right through this place. 

Although Wawona may be the best place for headquarters of the troop of cavalry, 
stationed in the jiark for its protection, yet it is on the extreme southern boundary 
of the park, from whence only a limited circle can be readily patrolled. I would re- 
spectfully suggest that one-half of the troop be ordered to establish a camp some- 
where near the center of the park, on the Tioga road, next year, from where it cau 
much more readily control the larger portion of the park. Mr. Robinson, an artist, 
informed me that a fire recently had burned for two weeks around the Tuolumne 
grove of big rrees, badly burning one of them before the soldiers came up to put it 
oiit. • 

The Southern Pacific Railroad Company, in conjunction with the Yosemite Stage 
and Transjwrtation Company (headquarters at Wawona j, is doing everything in its 
power to discourage travel into the Yosemite Valley exce])t by its route, via Ray- 
mond. Although they advertise four different routes (see inclosed schedule;, they 
all lead over Raymond, and anyone desiring to take routes 3 or 1 will be talked 
out of it by being told that the roads are very rough and dangerous. 

This, together with the exorbitant prices charged for everything, really makes 
the Yosemite National Park inaccessible except to persons of ample time and means. 
The free road to be built this winter from Merced will undoubtedly be provided 
with a good stage line, which will carry passengers at reasonaVde rates. 

An electric road to and even into tliis park would not be very objectionable, as 
there is no game to be scared away, as in the case of Yellowstone Park. 

In a report luade on November 15, 1892, by Capt. John S. Stidger, 
special agent from the General Land Office detailed for this service, he 
states as follows regarding the Yosemite Valley: 

Speculation, traffic, and gain are the dominating features of the management. The 
"floor" of the valley presents the appearance of a poorly managed cattle ranch. 
About 380 acres are fenced with liarbed wire, post and rail, picket, board and brush, 
and the mountain sides being ttsed to complete the iuclosure. These inclosures are 
tised for hay meadows, pastures for horses and mules, cattle corrals, hogpen and 
dairy purposes. The remainder of the floor is the camping ground of visitors, and 
when I was there in August jireseuted much the ap])earance of a deserted cavalry 
camp that had been poorly iioliced during occui)ancy. If this is permitted a few 
seasons longer the "floor"' will be despoiled of all its natural beauty ami its flora 
and fern growth will only live in the memory of the "oldest inhabitants," and the 
scenic ettect in the valley greatly marred. Soiae camping ground should be desig- 
nated and facilities aftbrded to those who go in private conveyances to spend their 
vacation amid these magnificent and inspiring surroundings. 

Speculation in hay and all necessities, including guides and livery, is the one 
source of universal complaint among tourists. There is no competition allowed 
and no limit placed on parties in control. In the language of many that I have had 
communication with, " We were taken into the valley for $.50 and then robbed by 
extortionate prices." This ought to be remedied. 

The State of California makes appropriation for use in the valley, but the money 
is injudiciously applied. It is used in destroying the natural by trimming up groves, 
making and enlarging meadows and corrals, cutting trees that are in the way and 
using them for cordwood. These so-called "improvements" are destroying the 
natural beauty of the "floor" of the valley, and the attention of the State should 
be called to tins failure to properly administer its trust. There should be no fenc- 
ing i>ermitted and no cutting or trimming of groves or trees, no attemi)t at the arti- 
ficial. Its natural features should remain intact. Great carelessness is manifested 
bv the management in the matter of fire. Thoughtless tourists build cami) fires and 
ignite stumps and old logs without thought of probable results. Firebrands are 
often thrown from the precipices for the amusement of those below, and just prior 
to my arrival a large area betM'een Yosemite Falls and Indian Canon was devastated 
by this carelessness. 



b YOSEMITE PARK. 

lu my opinion the iState of CaliforniM should be asked to relinquish this trust and 
that the General Govtjniment resume control of the valley, and then place the valley 
and the Yosemite Xational Park under the rules anil regulations now governing the 
Yeiidwstoue National Park, and not have this dual control, or a wheel within a wheel. 
I am convinced, from careful observation and inquiry, that the people of California 
would approve this course, as they do not care to be taxed for improvements and 
reap no advantage that would not attain under the control of the General Govern- 
ment. * 

I have to suggest that tlie tacts herein set out- may be considered in 
connection with the evidence and photographs transmitted to the 
Senate in my report on January 30, 1891. It seems to be incoutestably 
shown that under the State control the Yosemite Valley has been man- 
aged with an eye single to i»rofit and speculation and not in the line of 
preserving the scenic and botanic wonders of the place, for the admira- 
tion and benefit of the people of the nation and the world, for the present 
and future generations; and I earnestly advise that some adequate 
legislation be enacted to preserve what little yet remains of the original 
flora of the valley. As the Yosemite National Park, established by act 
of Congress approved October 1, 1890, entirely s-urrounds the valley 
now in charge of the State of California, it would seem the most natural 
and feasible plan to have the valley reconveyed to the United States so 
it may be under the same management with the surrounding region. 

I have deemed that compliance with the spirit of the resolutions of 
the Senate makes it proper that I submit the additional evidence ob- 
tained and these fui'ther suggestions, in connection with the tacts here- 
tofore furnished. 

I also deem it my duty in this connection to call the attention of 
Congress to tlie subject of toll roads in the Yosemite National Park, 
which has been investigated by John S. Stidger, special land agent, 
detailed by me for that purpose. As represented by the report of Mr. 
Stidger, there are four toll roads, built under State authority and owned 
by i)rivate individuals or corporations, leading into the National Park, 
three of which find their termini in the Yosemite Valley. The accom- 
panying topographical map of the valley shows the points of entrance 
of these roads. The more northerly is the Big Oak Flat road, 33 miles 
long, 20 miles of which bes in the National Park. The toll on this road 
is about 34 cents per person per mile. The estimated cost was $-16,050. 

The Coulterville road, 37 miles long, enters by the way of the Merced 
Eiver Valley. Twenty-three miles of this road lies in the National 
Park. The toll is about 3 cents per person per mile. The estimated 
cost is $85,000. 

The Wawona road, 05 miles long, with 25 miles in the park, enters 
from the southwest, and the tolls are about 2 cents per person per mile. 
Estimated cost, 175,000. That portion of tliese roads in the Yosemite 
Valley is now owned by the State of California. 

A fourth road, the Tioga, 56 miles in length, runs clear across the 
park north of the valley for a distance of 48 miles. The estimated cost 
is $02,000, and the tolls about 3i cents per pei\son per mile. 

Mr. Stidger thinks these tolls reasonable, and advises that the United 
States should become the owner of the portions of these toll roads 
within the park. 

On the 19th' of Julj', 1892, an act of Congress was approved granting 
a right of way in the county of Mariposa for a free wagon road or turn- 
pike, from the southwestern corner of the National Park to the western 
boundary of the Yosemite Valley. 
Very respectfully, 

John W. NoBLft, 

The Pr:^sident of the Senate. Secretary. 



YOSEMITE PARK. 9 



San Francisco, Cal., November 15, 

Sir: As directed by your letter to Special Agent A. G. Speer, dated February 18, 
1892, and your letters to me dated March 8, 1892, and September 26, 1892, I have 
made au investigation of all matters suggested by your instructions, and have the 
hom)r herewith to submit my report and the accompanying papers. 

There are four toll roads leading into Yosemite National Park. One enters the 
park via Big Oak Flat, known and incorporated as '• The Dig Oak Flat Turnpike 
Eoad Company." It is 33 uiilcs in length and 20 miles of tliis road lies between the 
western boundary of the park and the western boundary of the Yosemite Valley or 
State grant, that is 20 miles within the Yosemite National Park. 

A report from the officers and managers of this road shows the cost of this road to 
have been $4.5,650, and I am of the opinion that this sum was required. It is sub- 
stantially built and in excellent repair, the bridges permanent, with safe approaches, 
and the walls on lower sides high enough to protect i)a8senger8 in vehicles from 
danger of disaster. 

The tolls on this road are fixed annually by the board of supervisors of Tuolumne 
County, Cal., and no change has been made since 1876. The following are the rates : 

Each person in buggy, stage, or wagon ^\l^^ 

Horse and rider nOO 

Each pack animal 37^ 

Loose horses and cattle (each) 10 

Sheep, goats, or hogs (each) 05 

Foot passengers 25 

Each vehicle (freight) drawn by one animal 1. 00 

Additional animal 50 

For a complete history of this road, including abstract of title, right of franchise' 
rates of toll, and cost of construction, see papers iiled with and made part of this 
report an^l marked Exhibit A. 

The second road is known as Tioga road and is incorjjorated as the " Great Sierra 
"Wagon Koad Company." This road commences near the line between the Towu- 
8hi])s 1 and 2 south, range 19 east, kce])ing within the said tier of townships until 
it reaches the south-center of Township 1 north, range 24 east, passing out of the 
park on the cast .side of said township. It is 56 miles in length and about 48 miles 
are within the Yosemite Natiohal Park. 

This road was originally intended to reach the Tioga mining district on the east 
side of the park. It is well built, but the mines not being worked at this time, one 
or two breaks have occurred and have not been repaired this season. Travel still 
passes over it. This road is reached l)y a trail leading out of Yosemite Valley. 

The cost of construction of this road is reported at $62,000, and from the rugged 
country through which it passes and the heavy cuts and hlls lam of the opinion that 
the amount is not overstated. 

The tolls are tixed annually by the boards of supervisors of Tuolumne and Mono 
counties, through which it pas.'jes, and the following are the past and present rates : 

Freight team with two horses $5. 00 

Each additional horse l.oO 

Empty wagons half rates. 

Passenger teams, each horse 2. 50 

Footmen 1-00 

Horse and rider 2. 00 

Pack animal ^'n 

Loose horses and cattle (each) ^0 

Sheep, goats, and hogs (each) lo 

A full and complete history of this road, its right of franchise, articles of incor- 
poration, and rates of toll accompany this report and are marked Exhibit B. 

The third road is known as the •' Wawona " and is incorporated under the title ot 
the " Yosemite Stage and Turnpike Company." This company maintains and keeps 
in repair various roads and branches. It commences at Raymond, a station on the 
Southern Pacific Railroad, and extends to the Yosemite Valley, a distance of 65 miles. 
About 20 or 25 miles of this road is in the Yosemite National Park, and a branch of 
this road extends to the Mari])osa grove of big trees. It also has numerous trails 
leading to scenic portions of the i>ark. This is the principally traveled route to 
Y'osemite Valley. It is in good condition, has good bridges, and is built tor coiiitort 
and safety. It is equi])ped with good stages and horses, and has carried nearly ten 
thousand'passengers the vear without accident worthy of mention. 

The company claims to have expended $75,000 in construction and repairs, and 1 
have no doubt' this is a reasonable estimate. 



10 YOSEMITE PARK. 

It is authorized to charge the following tolls by the board of supervisors of Mari- 
posa County: 

Passenger teams, per passenger $1. 00 

Freight teams, per animal 1.00 

Horse and rider 1. 00 

Animals packed, per animal 75 

Animals loose, per animal 25 

Cattle loose, per head 25 

Foot passengers, each 25 

Sheep, goats, and hogs, per head 10 

A full and complete history of this road, the right of purchase, articles of incor- 
poration, and rates of toll, as submitted by the company, is herewith filed and made 
part of this report and marked Exhibit C. 

The fourth is known as the Coulterville road, and is incorporated under the name 
of the "Coulterville and Yosemite Turnpike Company." It commences at Coulter- 
ville on the west side of the National Park. A total of 37 miles has been built, 23 miles 
of which are within the boundary of Yosemite National Park. The sum of $85,000 
is t^e estimated amount used in the construction and keeping up repairs, and the 
estimated cost of the 23 miles within the Park is $65,000. There is heavy stone exca- 
vating and stone walls, on lower side, built on this road, and this appears to be a 
fair estimate of the amount used in its construction. 

The board of supervisors for Mariposa County haA^e fixed the tolls for 1892 as 
follows : 

Passenger teams, per passenger $1. 00 

Horse and rider 1. 00 

Freight teams loaded, per animal 1. 00 

Freight teams emiity, per animal , 50 

Animals packed, each .' 75 

Animals loose, per animal 37^ 

Sheep and hogs, each 10 

From Bower Cave to Crane Flat: 

Passenger teams, j^er passenger 50 

Horse and rider 50 

f Freight teams loaded, per animal 50 

Freight teams empty, per animal 25 

Animals packed, each 37-^ 

Animals loose, each 20 

Sheep and hogs 10 

Annexed and made a part of this report will be found a history, certified copy of 
the articles of incorporation, right of franchise, and rates of toll, marked Exhibit D. 

It will thus be seen that all the roads and trails within the limits of the Yosemite 
National grant were built by private individuals or incorporated road companies. 
All the trails within the grant, as well as all the extensions of the roads'uamed, ex- 
cept the extension of the Big Oak Flat and Yosemite road Avere built by permission 
and under the authority of the State commissioners, appointed by the governor under 
the act of Congress approved .Tune 30, 1864, to manage the Yosemite Valley and 
Mariposa Big Tree Grove. The State, although it accepted the grant from Congress 
by act of the legislature apjiroved Ai)ril 2, 1866, made no appropriations for building 
roads and trails to or upon the premises comprised in the grant for the accommoda- 
tion of tourists visiting the big trees and the wonderful rock and water scenery of 
the Yosemite Valley. 

These roads and trails being absolutely necessary to the visiting aiid enjoyment of 
this scenery, the Commissioners permitted tbe road companies to build them, and in 
consideration of these being built allowed the parties building them to collect tolls 
on the trails and on parts of the roads within the grant, as a consideration for their 
construction. The Commissioners had an agreement with said companies that all 
of said roads and trails within the grant would be purchased for the State of Cali- 
fornia whenever the State legislature shoulw appropriate the money for the commis- 
sioners to make these purchases. The State legislature made such appropriations, 
and all these roads and trails within the grant are now the property of the State 
and free for public use. It is my opinion that California acted wisely in ijurchas- 
ing all roads and trails with'u the State grant, and this act of the State legislature 
might properly be followed by the United States by the purchase and making free 
all roads and trails within the boundaries of the Yosemite National Park. 



YOSEMITE PARK. 11 

HOTELS. 

There are two hotels in Yosemite Valley, or State grant. One is known as the 
"Stoneman," and was built under the supervision of the State commissioners after 
the grant was accepted. It is a commodious and comfortable hostelry and is owned 
by J. J. Cook. Its table is well supplied and its charges, $4 per day, appear reasona- 
ble when we consider the short season it can run and the great distance all its sup- 
plies must be hauled. 

The " Bernard" was built prior to the act of Congress. Its charges are tixed at 
$3 per day. It is clean and comfortable. 

The " Washburne House," near the southern boundary of the park, but outside, is 
a commodious and comfortable summer resort; charges, per day, $4. It is from this 
point (Wawoua) that tourists leave the main traveled road to reach the Mariposa 
Big Tree Grove, distant 8 miles. 

Although not within the limits of your letter authorizing this investigation I can 
not but deem it proper to give my impressions in reference to the State of Califor- 
nia's control of its trust, as conferred by act of Congress approved June 30, 1864. 

Speculation, traffic, and gain are the dominating features of the management. 
The " floor " of the valley presents the appearance of a poorly managed cattle ranch. 
About 380 acres are fenced with barbed wire, post and rail, picket, Iwrarrl and brush, 
and the mountain sides being iised to Cf)mplete the iuclosure. These inclosures are used 
for hay meadows, pastures for horses and mules, cattle corrals, hogpen, and dairy pur- 
poses. The remainder of the tloor is the camping ground of visitors, and when I 
was there in August presented much the appearanceof a deserted cavalry camp that 
had been poorly policed during occupancy. If this is permitted a few seasons longer 
the "floor" will be despoiled of all its natural beauty and its flora and fern jirowth 
will only live in tlie memory of the •' oldest inhabitants " and the scenic effect in the 
valley greatly marred. Some camping ground should be designated and.facilities 
afforded to those who go in private conveyances to s^iend their vacation amid these 
magniticent and inspiring surroundings. 

Speculation in hay and all necessities, including guides and livery, is the one 
source of universal complaint among tourists. There is no competition allKwed, and 
no limit ])laced on parties in control. In the language of many that I have had 
communication with : " We were taken into the valley for $50 and then robbed by 
extortionate jirices." This ought to be remedied. 

The State of California makes appropriations for use in the valley, Init the money 
is injudiciously apidied. It is used in destroying the natural by trimming up groves, 
making and enlarging meadows and corrals, cutting trees tliat are in the way, and using 
them for cordwood. These so-called " imjtroveiuents" are destroying the natural 
beauty of the "floor" of the valley, and the attention of the State should be called 
to this failure to properly administer its trust. There should be no fencing permit- 
ted and no cutting or trimming of groves or trees; no attempt at the artiflcial. Its 
natural features should remain intact. 

Great carelessness is manifested by the management in the matter of fire. 
Thoughtless tourists build canipflres and ignite stumps and old logs witliout thonglit 
of ])robal)le results. Firebrands are often thrown from the precipices for the amuse- 
ment of those below, and just prior to my arrival a large area between Yosemite 
Falls and Indian Canon was devasted by this carelessness. 

In my opinion the State of California shoiild be asked to relinquish this trust and 
the General Government resume control of the valley and then ]>lace the valley 
and the Yosemite ISlational Park under the rules and regulations now governing the 
Yellowstone National Park, and not have this dual control, or a wheel within a 
wheel. I am convince<l from careful observation and inquiry that the people of 
California would ai»}n-ove tliis course, as they do not care to be taxed for imi)rove- 
ments and reap no advantage that wouhl not attain under the control of the General 
Government. 

MARIPOSA BIG TREE GROVE. 

My investigation of the Mariposa Big Tree Grove proved more satisfactory. The 
Stat"e of California, through its legislature, has made liberal a])itroi>riations for roads 
and to attord protection, and the money is being expended for the doubh> jiuri)ose 
of giving ample opportunity for tourists to examine the magniticent projiortions of 
this immense forest of sequoias, about five hundred in number, and to make these 
roads subserve the purpose of "breaks" against the too numerous forest flres that 
have marreo their mighty trunks in the past. The fallen branches, needles, and 
cones, the deposit of years, are being removed from about them, and every precau- 
tion is taken to protect them from calamity. 

California and the General Government should be im]>ressed with the fact that if 
destroyed the age shown in history of the great nations would not be sufficient to 
reproduce them. 



12 YOSEMITE PARK. 

Where the ground has been cleared of the dc'bris thousaudvS of young sequoias liave 
sprung 11]), and it would be a popular and thoughtful act of some Congressman with 
a desire to perpetuate his name to introduce a bill to traus])lant these young sequoias 
into groves and ])rotect them from fire. Not one that I examined was free from the 
marks of fire at tlie base. Six or eight thf)usand years might determine the extreme 
possibilities of their growtli under favorable conditions. If the distinguished chair- 
man of the Senate Committee on Forestry would seize his opportunity and introduce 
such a bill no "granite shaft nor gilded dome" would keej) his memory so green as 
the "'Paddock Sequoia Gi'ove." 

AVhile California is comi)lying with the terms of its trust in this instance, it still 
impresses me that the General Government should own, control, and bear the ex- 
jtenses of its care and preservation. *> 

BOUNDARY. 

The Yosemite National Park, established by act of Congress approved October 1, 
1890, comi^rises in all forty-two townshijis of laud, lying in Tuolumne, Mariposa, 
Fresno, and Mono counties, Cal., and extending from the summits of the Sierra 
Nevadas westerly, an average breadth of seven townships, or 42 miles, to the divid- 
ing line between ranges 18 and 19 east. Mount Diablo Meridian, and from north to 
south a breadth of six townships, or 36 miles, from Township 2 north to Township 4 
south, inclusive, and covers an area of about 1,.500 square miles, or nearly 100,000 
acres of laud. 

Three im])ortaut streams have their sources and many of their tributary l>ranches 
in the Sierra Nevadas, within the limits of this park, the Tuolumne, Merced, and San 
Joaquin rivers. The two former of these streams flow westerly through the north- 
ern and middle regions of the i)ark, and down the western slopes of the Sierras and 
their foothills, into the San Joaquin Valley and empty into the San Joaquin River 
The more northerly sources of the. San Joaquin River are in the Siei'ras and in the 
southeastern i)art of the park, this stream flowing southwesterly through the Sierra 
slopes and foothills and into the Joaquin Valley in Fresno County, and thence 
northwesterly, through the counties of Merced, Stanislaus, San Joaquin, and Contra 
Costa, to its junction with the Sacramento River, and these counties depend on the 
■San .Toaquin and tributaries for its waters. 

All the present horticultural and agricultural uses of this vast foothill and valley 
territory, as well as all its future possibilities in these respects, make it necessary to 
properly conserve all the waters in all these streams, from their sources to their out- 
lets, for the benefits which are only possible in the highest degree to this vast semi- 
arid territory from irrigation. 

Nearly all the territory in the park is more or less heavily covered with forest — 
the varieties of timber growth comprising mainly tamarack, hemlock, fir, spruce, 
cedar, pine, oak. and sequoias, and nowhere in the world has nature grown her for- 
ests on a grander or more wonderful scale than in the Sierra Nevadas, and within 
the limits of this park. The appellation Oif/aiitea has been given by scientists to 
this variety sequoias growing here because of the euormcius size to which it attains, 
2.50 feet in height and 15 to 30 feet in diameter, being an ordinary size for a fully 
developed sequoia. The growth of the pines, s])ruces, cedars, and firs, though not so 
large as the se(iuoias, is in the same grand projiortions, and anywhere else in the 
world all these Avctuld be regarded as gigantic tree growths. 

As nearly all the mountain territory watered by these streams and covered by 
these forests is the projierty of the nation, and has been dedicated to public park 
purposes, it certainly is the part of wisdom for the Government to retain this valu- 
able domain, and to exemi)lify and develo]) U])on it the problems of water and forest 
preservation nninagement, so important to tlie future welfare and prosperity, not 
only of the region comprised in the park, and the territory lying below and to the 
west of it, through which the streams flow, but also to all other forest territory 
which is yet the }>roperty of the nation, and has yet to be submitted to the same 
systems of water and forest management. 

In this view of the present and proajjective importance .and great economic value 
of the territory comprised in the Yosemite National Park, I earnestly advise the 
Government, as well in its legislative as in its executive branches, to very carefully 
•consider any proposition to modify or restrict the boundaries of the park, and that 
it only consent to such restriction after being satisfied that these great economic 
nses of the park, which are for all time and for great numbers of people, will not be 
damaged by it. 

The Merced grove of big trees (Sequoia giganfea) is situated inT.2 S., R. 19 E.. and 
the Tuolumne grove of big trees is in T. 2 S., R. 20 E., both of them l>eing within 
the limits of the park. These big trees are the most beautiful and symmetrical, as 
well as the grandest specimens of forest growth knoAvn in the world. The presence 
of these big trees in the township named, certainly suggests, and, I might say, makes 



YOSEMITE PARK. 13 

imperative, the retention of both these townships in the park, to the end that, liy 
no possibility, shall these two groves of Sequoia (jiguntea be injured or destroyed 
by forest tires or other vandalism. They need the jtrotection of at least a township 
of territory about them, and this to be under the watchful care of the (ioveruraent, 
so as to surely save them from the danger of injury and destruction incident to all 
unprotected mountain forest growths. 

From its western boundary easterly to the summits of the Sierras the park is well 
watered by lakes and streams which are tributary to the Tuolumne, and the whole 
region, particularly along the water courses, is timbered and interspersed with 
lakes and grassy meadows. This timber growth and the water in these tributary 
streams of the Tuolumne need to be protected and preserved for the use of the pres- 
ent and coming generations, and its great benefits should not be yielded up to a few 
ranchmen located on or near its borders or to the imaginary wealth of a few mining 
claims long since abandoned. • 

The same may be said of the eastern regions of the park. For the scenic beauty 
and grandeur of the high Sierras, as exemplified by such bold and lofty granite peaks 
as Mounts Conuero, Warren, Dana, Gibbs, Lyell, and Ritter, with the living glaciers 
they sustain, as well as for the streams that head in them, these granite summits 
ought to be, and forever remain, the eastern boundaries of the park. 

And in view of the possible early passage by Congress of the •' Paddock forestry 
bill,"' which proposes to reserve all the forest regions of the nation, and providing for 
the protection and administration of these forests and the sale of the timber under 
established rules, for the use of the people, I thiuk it both wise and proper to recom- 
mend that all the boundaries of the Yosemite National Park, with all its wonderful 
mountains and forest and water and rock scenery, remain as established by act of 
Congress a]>proved October 1, 1R90. until such time as, after the yjassage and under 
the administration of the " Paddock bill,'' such eliminations, and only such, as after 
careful consideration may be found to be proper, be then made from this park. 

Respectfullv submitted. 

John S. Stidger, 
Special Ageiit General Lund Office. 

The Secretary of the Interior, 

WuMngton, D. C. 



